sewing

Tuesday Project Roundup: Make Nines

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I finally finished the ninth item of 2018’s Make Nine list and moved right on to the first one of 2019’s Make Nine.

On the left we have an Archer button up, with the “popover” placket variation. I was so thrilled I figured out how to engineer the front placket so the plaid matched that I didn’t realize I cut it so it opens the “wrong” (man shirt) way. Oh well–still thrilled about that pattern matching. This is in a remnant from Stylemaker Fabrics, bought back in 2017.

On the right, we have a Nikko top in a nice cotton/spandex from Stonemountain. I hadn’t sewn any knit tops in a while and I forgot how fast they are–this was constructed in pretty much an afternoon.

January was, understandably, a hard month for doing things like sewing, or focusing, or enjoying anything, really–but it feels good to be getting back into the groove a little.

2019 Sewing Plans

By in 2019 Make Nine, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

The 2018 Make Nine challenge was my first time really planning out projects; it was helpful to think about the year as a whole, what I needed in my closet, and what interested me to sew. With that said, I got distracted by new projects a fair amount too, and of course made more than nine things.

Part of my lack of focus last year was, um, buying a lot of fabric for future projects, so my 2019 Make Nine will use fabric I already have. I’m not going to say, “I won’t buy any new fabric in 2019” or anything crazy like that, but considering I have six additional cuts not shown here, I’m going to try to sew from my stash for a little bit.

So here’s what’s planned, in no particular order:

#1 is another Archer button up in ikat from Stonemountain, which my friend bought for me last year while she was in Berkeley. (FaceTiming someone through a fabric store = true friendship.)

 

#2 is an Ogden Cami in sold-out-everywhere Anna Maria Horner rayon. I found just over a yard on eBay last summer and have been hoarding it. 

 

#3 and #4 are a couple of Linden Sweatshirts, in fleece I indigo dyed in 2017 and some textured doubleknit from Stonemountain. I think these will be easy work outfits with wide-leg pants and cool boots.

 

#5 is a long sleeve version of the vintage jumpsuit I made last year, in Kokka abstract twill from Stonemountain again. (I’m just gonna say, Stonemountain knows what they’re doing when they include coupons for your next order with your current order…)

 

#6 is hopefully a Toaster Sweater #2–this is amazing merino sweatshirt fleece from an order from The Fabric Store in January last year. I’m going to test it out in Polarfleece first to see if I like the neckline; if it all works out I’ll have a new loungewear top, too.

 

#7 is the Silvia Coatigan from Schnitten Patterns (I have the pattern ready but need to print the instructions). I’m going to gamble and not make a muslin; my fabric is a wool/acrylic tweed from Fabric.com and lining from JoAnn, so nothing’s too precious.

 

#8 (and maybe #9; see next project) is another couple of Nikko Tops (the long sleeve version), in black rayon microrib and toffee cotton from Stonemountain’s Black Friday sale.

 

And finally, #9 will hopefully be a lengthened Tamarack Jacket in this astonishing double gauze I bought last year. My only hesitation is I’m not 100% in love with the neckline of the Tamarack I made in 2017 (Grainline crewnecks are generally too low for my taste); I love this fabric so much that I want it to be perfect. So I’ll ponder alterations and maybe a muslin and we’ll see.

 

And there you have it! Nine things that I have the fabric and patterns for, in an accidentally-cohesive color palette. (Bob Ross colors forever!)

2018 Sewing Year In Review

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Favorite project of the year

It’s New Year’s Day, but I use my birthday on the 3rd to plan the year ahead, so let’s look back on what I made in 2018.

Jackets

  • One quilted kimono, self-drafted and marginally successful (I think I might cut the weird sleeves off and make it a vest)
  • Two Wiksten Kimono Jackets (now called Wiksten Haori): tan linen, amazing blue jacquard 

Pants

  • Emerson Pants in Japanese canvas
  • Hudson Pants in glen plaid 
  • Arenite Pants in brown linen (These were the fail of the year; they were too big and too brown. I still the concept, though; if I find the right fabric I might try again.)
  • A vintage Simplicity jumpsuit out of an IKEA duvet

Woven Tops 

Knit Tops 

Activewear

Loungewear

  • A mini capsule with Hudson pants and 2 Finlayson Pullovers (confession, I hate the fit on those pullovers–they were a men’s pattern, lesson learned–and am going to make something better and warmer this month).

Lingerie

  • Six pairs of undies (I discovered both lingerie sewing and the deep and abiding joy of full-coverage underwear)

Gifts

 

That’s 32 garments (34, if you count baby rompers) and some smaller projects–more than double last year’s output. Having a serger all year was definitely a game-changer.

On top of all of this, I bought a few things from J. Crew and Madewell (and even exercise tights from Old Navy), but I bought a few more from Everlane and Outdoor Voices and Girlfriend Collective, aka more sustainable/sweatshop-free places. And the majority of my new clothes in 2018 were made by me–a first!

Second favorite (ok, it was almost a tie)

Year In Review: The Christmas Presents

By in knitting, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

The end of the year kind of got away from me, so let’s take a week to review what I made and what I want to make for next year–starting with some Christmas presents.

I didn’t really plan it, but my brother’s family all got handmade things this year. It started when my brother was talking about a shirt he had in high school, which we both loved (I stole it from him and wore it to junior high when I could): a Levi’s button up in navy and white buffalo plaid. I knew Kaufman made a really nice heavy duty buffalo plaid a couple years ago; I found the last yardage in existence on Etsy in August and bought it.

I started before Thanksgiving and batch sewed it along with Doc’s birthday shirt (using the same M6044 pattern). He was really touched and says he loves it–the fit is great, as you can see.

 

For my sister-in-law, an actual rocket scientist, I found this science print on Spoonflower and sewed her up an Ida Clutch, minus the magnetic snap, so she can use it as a travel bag when she goes to all her rocket science conferences.

 

And finally, I wasn’t going to make anything for my nephew, because I thought, “What seven-year-old wants something that could have been given in Little House on the Prairie times?” Well, turns out this seven-year-old does.

I brought sock knitting along on our beach vacation road trip in October and he was fascinated and learned how it all worked. Then he told me, “You should make me a scarf that’s blue and green and purple and orange.”

Reader, when we got home I ordered the yarn so fast my keyboard was smoking. I made his scarf really long (probably too long) because I thought it would be more fun and dramatic for a little kid. He opened the box on Christmas and said, “Oh! It’s my scarf! You made it like I asked!” and that was the best reaction I could have hoped for. 

Tuesday Project Roundup: Birthday Shirt

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It can’t be a birthday without a birthday shirt for Doc! (Literally, it can’t; he’s going to get shirts for the rest of our time together because he is so hard to shop for.) 

This year’s version is ikat from Stonemountain. I blame watching the new Queer Eye and hearing Tan mutter something like, “Why do straight men only wear plaid?” to get me to branch out a little for Doc. 

I used the trusty McCalls 6044 pattern with my redrafted one-piece sleeve and the tower sleeve vents from the Archer button up. This is either the eighth or ninth shirt for him from this pattern, so it all went together pretty easily. The snaps gave me a lot of grief, though–I ran out of time to order 18L size from Snap Source so struggled through setting some from JoAnn and it was terrible. Snap Source or bust from here on out. 

I also had some tension issues with my machine, which the light stitching on the dark fabric makes extra-noticeable. But I have to remember what my mom says: “You’ll never see it from the streamliner.” Doc says he likes it, he looks handsome in it, and it was made with love. 

Tuesday Project Roundup: Finally A Shirt

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My old roommate would buy huge quantities of soap and detergent and toilet paper and just stockpile them, telling me every time he added more, “It doesn’t go bad!”

Fortunately, the same thing is true of fabric.

I bought this slubby stretch linen/cotton in April last year, declaring it to be “the summer of shirts.” I cut it out and then it sat…and sat…and sat. I said I’d finish it this year for the Summer of Basics…and it still sat. But I finally finished it last month and got some pictures when I wore it yesterday.

Doing my best impression of a male model in a 70s turtleneck catalog

The pattern is the Grainline Archer, but this time I went up two full sizes–my first ones were a 4 in the shoulders grading to a 6 at the waist, and this is an 8 grading to a 10. It’s not that oversized now since I’m getting muscles, but it’s nice and relaxed. The sleeves ended up a little long but I can deal with it.

You can’t really see the detail in the fabric but there’s a hairline stripe. It’s sold out now–since this project took years–but I found it at Threadbare Fabrics. 

Tuesday Project Roundup: Layers Of The 80s

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I hit the “it’s cold and I have nothing to wear” wall hard this year. All my blazers are a little snug now that I have muscles and my office isn’t really a blazer office, anyway. So how to stay warm? Sew up some layers.

The 80s are back, if you haven’t noticed, and a mockneck under a shirt or sweatshirt is everywhere. So I made a couple True Bias Nikko tops.

The one on the left is an Art Gallery cotton knit, which is gorgeous quality. I’d seen the print a couple years ago and loved it but didn’t really sew knits at the time. Fortunately, I was able to find some of the last on the internet at Let’s Sew. I only got a yard and a half so I had to cut the back in two pieces, and I went up a size and cut the neck a little bigger to make up for the fabric having less stretch than recommended. But it all worked out–1980s me and current me really love this one.

The one on the right is a rayon/spandex rib knit that’s really soft and cozy, even if it is a little sheer. It doesn’t have weird faces all over it but you really can’t argue with a vintage-looking striped base layer.

I’ve been wearing these a lot under shirts and cardigans and have a couple cuts of fabric coming to make more–because you have to have different color turtlenecks to coordinate with your layers. It’s the first rule of the 80s:

Tuesday Project Roundup: Pinterest Pants

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I’ve been seeing a lot of gray/glen plaid show up this season (even Meghan Markle is getting in on it!). I was considering buying or making a plaid blazer, but my life really isn’t a blazer life any more. Then I saw this Pinterest image and thought, “PLAID PANTS!”

I briefly considered trying a new pants pattern with a flat front or a real fly, but the trusty True Bias Hudson Pants won out in the end, because I knew they fit and I could make them in a weekend. I used some stretch rayon/poly suiting from Fabric.com, which holds up really well after a day in the office.

I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again: Yay for sewing, which lets me jump on the trends without 1.) spending an exorbitant amount and 2.) going to H&M and feeling guilty about sweatshops.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Gym Pants (That Are Not $85)

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At the risk of sending my dad into cardiac arrest when he reads this, I tried to buy the Outdoor Voices CloudKnit Sweats for $85.  Sure, I knew I could make them, but I’d convinced myself the fabric and the fit would be spectacular and totally worth it.

I mean, just look at these miracle sweatpants!

 

Well, two sizes and returns later, the fabric felt like a weird polyester microfiber, there was an unnecessary  seam right at the bend of the knee, and the fit was less flattering than the Hudson Pants pattern we all know and love. I knew what I had to do.

I got two yards of a very soft poly/rayon/spandex French terry and for $20 and a half a day of sewing, I had some gym pants and $65 in the bank.

As you can see by the photo IN AN ACTUAL GYM, I’ve worn these to workouts and they do great–the spandex keeps them from bagging out at the knees and they’re trim but not frumpy, with a little more coverage than leggings. (Maybe next year I can be the person wearing shorts, knee socks, and a lifting belt, but I’m not there yet.)

Tuesday Project Roundup: BEST CRAZY PANTS

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Sure, sewing means you can make workout wear and plaid button-downs and an array of knit tops to fill holes in your wardrobe, but sometimes you just need to sew some crazy mustard-colored Japanese printed pants.

Or JAPANTS, as my coworker called them:

I saw this fabric at Miss Matatabi and the idea of JAPANTS sprang into my head fully-formed, like the trouser version of the birth of Athena. I used the Emerson Pants pattern and my serger and in about a day I had the best crazy pants of my dreams.

They are a lot of PANT but I love them–I’m a sucker for a Japanese print and for that Bob Ross yellow ochre color, so together they’re doubly good.

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