sewing

Make Nine 2019: The Other Sweatshirt

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Here’s the third thing on the Make Nine list for this year: a sweatshirt in fabric that I indigo dyed back in 2017. (No post about the dyeing but you can see Oliver sitting on it here).

 

After the last sweatshirt, I switched patterns to the Sloane by Named Patterns and it was everything I wanted: high neck, great fit through the shoulders, and those long French darts to add a little something. (Thanks to @threadsnips on Instagram for the suggestion!)

I’ve heard the drafting on Named Patterns praised before; I’d say it’s justified because I’m happy with the fit straight from the envelope. It’s also a really fast sew–this was done in a weekend.

I know the indigo will fade but right now it’s the perfect Bob Ross phthalo blue, so of course I had to pair it with some yellow ochre pants (from Everlane).

Tuesday Project Roundup: Gym Tights With Regular Seams

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I was still having trouble with the strength of my faux flatlock seams (the gray beta tights failed after my last post) but I’d also gone ahead and bought a lot more fabric for gym tights. What to do? Revert to regular serging and keep on sewing.

Since I was working with prints–and to limit the seams–I did the version of the Super G Tights without the side pockets. I used a twin needle to topstitch the front and back and waistband seams and left the gusset seam just plain, and it’s fine. (I was worried there might be too much bulk with a serged seam allowance but I don’t notice it.)

Because I made the version without the side pockets, I got fancy and added a back welt pocket for my phone using this tutorial.

Speaking of fancy, how great are these prints?! The leopard is a nylon athletic tricot from Mood–it’s definitely lightweight but it passes the squat test for sheerness. The Hawaiian print is the Pine Crest Fabrics “Athletic Double Knit” from Fabric.com--it’s a great medium weight, very smooth (and smoothing) and also not sheer at all.

I’ve noticed a little bit of side eye at the gym when I wear these (the craziest leggings color women wear there is burgundy) but I don’t care. I love prints and if I can wear them even while I get swole, I’m happy.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Traditional Gifts

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For our fifth anniversary, I made Doc the traditional gift of “condiment-colored loungewear.”  This is the Rebel Raglan sweatshirt in bamboo terry and matching ribbing from Blackbird Fabrics.

More online fabric companies need to match their ribbing to their sweatshirting because when Blackbird Fabrics did it, I couldn’t click “buy” fast enough. Literally–they had a really great muted rust and even a nice blue and those were gone before I could get an order in.

I did clear this mustard color with Doc before I bought it and again when it arrived. He deemed it “OK for loungewear” but sometimes I forget not everyone loves 70’s yellow the way I do. (Also, I realized I love it so much that now his sweatshirt matches my own Everlane sweatshirt I wear around the house. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )

Three guesses as to who really, really loves this fabric and color, though:

Tuesday Project Roundup: Beta Test Tights

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My doubts about the longevity of the space tights were justified: I wore them to a second workout and the stitches holding the elastic to the inner waist all popped. So I decided to make one more trial pair before I cut into the good stuff.

Beta test results were mixed, but overall positive: This pair has survived three workouts and washes so far!

The positive:

  • This is a far more breathable fabric than the space print swim spandex (it’s from my local  JoAnn, labeled as a “microflex compression” and it’s really thick and smoothing).
  • The stitches holding the elastic to the inner waist didn’t pop because I used stretch thread in the bobbin of my regular sewing machine (thanks to this tip).
  • I made the version of the Super G tights with side POCKETS. My tights have POCKETS! That held my phone securely through glute bridges and back extensions!
  • This pattern seriously makes the most comfortable pair of tights I’ve worn. I am not a “lounge around in leggings” person because they are all too tight, but these Super Gs somehow stay up and don’t budge without making me feel like my pants have turned into a boa constrictor. I didn’t change immediately after Sunday’s workout and realized I was lounging around in leggings–in comfort!

The negative:

  • I still had issues with the three-needle flatlock seams coming out along the waistband. I was able to mend the popped stitches so they’re wearable but it looks a little chewed up, as you can see below. My shirt covers the most egregious mends so I’m still wearing this pair (because POCKETS)–but I’m switching to a four-thread flatlock for future pairs.

Side view with pocket (!). At the top, you can see the zigzag stitches attaching the elastic to the inner waistband. You can see the mend on the vertical waistband seam.

 

I’ve been thinking that I don’t need to make any more clothes to wear to the office, so being able to channel the sewing energy towards something functional is really great. I’m going to have the fanciest wardrobe of tights instead!

Tuesday Project Roundup: SPACE TIGHTS

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Cue the Scarlett O’Hara in Gone With the Wind, because “as God is my witness, I will never pay for workout pants again.” Now I can MAKE them!

These are the Super G Tights from Greenstyle Creations and for this first trial pair, I made View A without pockets. The pattern itself is fantastic–easy to put together, with lots of inseam lengths marked and smart construction methods.

I’m still figuring out my faux flatlock stitch/stretch thread set up so I have some doubts about the longevity of this pair–but I did wear them for a workout and no seams popped open, so I’m calling it a win. (This article helped me figure out I had my lower looper tension wrong.) The fabric is a mystery “performance” tricot from JoAnn. For a trial pair, it was a fine fabric choice (and I love that print) but it doesn’t want to wick away much sweat.

But still: I MADE TIGHTS! I can make all the tights I want now, without sweatshop labor and without paying $80! Do I have three more cuts of fabric on their way to me for THREE MORE PAIRS? You know I do.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Sweatshirt Save

By in 2019 Make Nine, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

I finished the second of my 2019 Make Nine last week–a sweatshirt in some “gold grunge double knit” from Stonemountain (it’s long gone; I bought it last year).

I used the Grainline Linden sweatshirt pattern but it nearly didn’t work out: I forgot how low Grainline necklines are, so even with adding an inch to the neck opening, it was way too scooped. I fudged it by re-cutting a wider neckband and putting that on instead, but it wasn’t fun to unpick serging on this double knit.

Then after the neckband was fixed, I wanted the whole thing more cropped, so I ended up taking off the bottom band and cutting two inches off the body.

Overall this was harder than I thought it would be, but it did turn out how I pictured it. (I had a moment mid-project where I was sure I’d wasted the good fabric on something I’d never wear.)  Lesson learned, though: I’m going to try the Sloane pattern from Named for the next sweatshirt.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Make Nines

By in 2018 Make Nine, 2019 Make Nine, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

I finally finished the ninth item of 2018’s Make Nine list and moved right on to the first one of 2019’s Make Nine.

On the left we have an Archer button up, with the “popover” placket variation. I was so thrilled I figured out how to engineer the front placket so the plaid matched that I didn’t realize I cut it so it opens the “wrong” (man shirt) way. Oh well–still thrilled about that pattern matching. This is in a remnant from Stylemaker Fabrics, bought back in 2017.

On the right, we have a Nikko top in a nice cotton/spandex from Stonemountain. I hadn’t sewn any knit tops in a while and I forgot how fast they are–this was constructed in pretty much an afternoon.

January was, understandably, a hard month for doing things like sewing, or focusing, or enjoying anything, really–but it feels good to be getting back into the groove a little.

2019 Sewing Plans

By in 2019 Make Nine, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

The 2018 Make Nine challenge was my first time really planning out projects; it was helpful to think about the year as a whole, what I needed in my closet, and what interested me to sew. With that said, I got distracted by new projects a fair amount too, and of course made more than nine things.

Part of my lack of focus last year was, um, buying a lot of fabric for future projects, so my 2019 Make Nine will use fabric I already have. I’m not going to say, “I won’t buy any new fabric in 2019” or anything crazy like that, but considering I have six additional cuts not shown here, I’m going to try to sew from my stash for a little bit.

So here’s what’s planned, in no particular order:

#1 is another Archer button up in ikat from Stonemountain, which my friend bought for me last year while she was in Berkeley. (FaceTiming someone through a fabric store = true friendship.)

 

#2 is an Ogden Cami in sold-out-everywhere Anna Maria Horner rayon. I found just over a yard on eBay last summer and have been hoarding it. 

 

#3 and #4 are a couple of Linden Sweatshirts, in fleece I indigo dyed in 2017 and some textured doubleknit from Stonemountain. I think these will be easy work outfits with wide-leg pants and cool boots.

 

#5 is a long sleeve version of the vintage jumpsuit I made last year, in Kokka abstract twill from Stonemountain again. (I’m just gonna say, Stonemountain knows what they’re doing when they include coupons for your next order with your current order…)

 

#6 is hopefully a Toaster Sweater #2–this is amazing merino sweatshirt fleece from an order from The Fabric Store in January last year. I’m going to test it out in Polarfleece first to see if I like the neckline; if it all works out I’ll have a new loungewear top, too.

 

#7 is the Silvia Coatigan from Schnitten Patterns (I have the pattern ready but need to print the instructions). I’m going to gamble and not make a muslin; my fabric is a wool/acrylic tweed from Fabric.com and lining from JoAnn, so nothing’s too precious.

 

#8 (and maybe #9; see next project) is another couple of Nikko Tops (the long sleeve version), in black rayon microrib and toffee cotton from Stonemountain’s Black Friday sale.

 

And finally, #9 will hopefully be a lengthened Tamarack Jacket in this astonishing double gauze I bought last year. My only hesitation is I’m not 100% in love with the neckline of the Tamarack I made in 2017 (Grainline crewnecks are generally too low for my taste); I love this fabric so much that I want it to be perfect. So I’ll ponder alterations and maybe a muslin and we’ll see.

 

And there you have it! Nine things that I have the fabric and patterns for, in an accidentally-cohesive color palette. (Bob Ross colors forever!)

2018 Sewing Year In Review

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Favorite project of the year

It’s New Year’s Day, but I use my birthday on the 3rd to plan the year ahead, so let’s look back on what I made in 2018.

Jackets

  • One quilted kimono, self-drafted and marginally successful (I think I might cut the weird sleeves off and make it a vest)
  • Two Wiksten Kimono Jackets (now called Wiksten Haori): tan linen, amazing blue jacquard 

Pants

  • Emerson Pants in Japanese canvas
  • Hudson Pants in glen plaid 
  • Arenite Pants in brown linen (These were the fail of the year; they were too big and too brown. I still the concept, though; if I find the right fabric I might try again.)
  • A vintage Simplicity jumpsuit out of an IKEA duvet

Woven Tops 

Knit Tops 

Activewear

Loungewear

  • A mini capsule with Hudson pants and 2 Finlayson Pullovers (confession, I hate the fit on those pullovers–they were a men’s pattern, lesson learned–and am going to make something better and warmer this month).

Lingerie

  • Six pairs of undies (I discovered both lingerie sewing and the deep and abiding joy of full-coverage underwear)

Gifts

 

That’s 32 garments (34, if you count baby rompers) and some smaller projects–more than double last year’s output. Having a serger all year was definitely a game-changer.

On top of all of this, I bought a few things from J. Crew and Madewell (and even exercise tights from Old Navy), but I bought a few more from Everlane and Outdoor Voices and Girlfriend Collective, aka more sustainable/sweatshop-free places. And the majority of my new clothes in 2018 were made by me–a first!

Second favorite (ok, it was almost a tie)

Year In Review: The Christmas Presents

By in knitting, sewing, Tuesday Project Roundup

The end of the year kind of got away from me, so let’s take a week to review what I made and what I want to make for next year–starting with some Christmas presents.

I didn’t really plan it, but my brother’s family all got handmade things this year. It started when my brother was talking about a shirt he had in high school, which we both loved (I stole it from him and wore it to junior high when I could): a Levi’s button up in navy and white buffalo plaid. I knew Kaufman made a really nice heavy duty buffalo plaid a couple years ago; I found the last yardage in existence on Etsy in August and bought it.

I started before Thanksgiving and batch sewed it along with Doc’s birthday shirt (using the same M6044 pattern). He was really touched and says he loves it–the fit is great, as you can see.

 

For my sister-in-law, an actual rocket scientist, I found this science print on Spoonflower and sewed her up an Ida Clutch, minus the magnetic snap, so she can use it as a travel bag when she goes to all her rocket science conferences.

 

And finally, I wasn’t going to make anything for my nephew, because I thought, “What seven-year-old wants something that could have been given in Little House on the Prairie times?” Well, turns out this seven-year-old does.

I brought sock knitting along on our beach vacation road trip in October and he was fascinated and learned how it all worked. Then he told me, “You should make me a scarf that’s blue and green and purple and orange.”

Reader, when we got home I ordered the yarn so fast my keyboard was smoking. I made his scarf really long (probably too long) because I thought it would be more fun and dramatic for a little kid. He opened the box on Christmas and said, “Oh! It’s my scarf! You made it like I asked!” and that was the best reaction I could have hoped for. 

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