Category: sewing

I finished a pair of jeans last week–my first button fly and a wearable test of a pattern designed for selvedge denim.

I didn’t do any fitting on these and overall, they’re working OK–there’s a little room to get more swole but that just means they’ll fit longer than 6 months. Plus, my denim here is an 11 ounce weight; most selvedge denims are 13-15 oz so I think if I ever make these as intended, the heavier weight will help smooth these out just a little. (Of course, the nature of a straight side seam and long fly means it’s always going to wrinkle from wearing ease–thanks to The Crooked Hem for explaining that so well!)

Since these were just a test, I didn’t want to order (or shorten) a custom-length zipper, so I used the pattern option for a button fly. I’m a complete button fly convert now–you make the buttonholes first thing so they’re easy; you don’t have to worry about hitting the metal zipper at the bottom of your fly topstitching; and you can use your RIVET PRESS.

I also used up a label from my stash of patches and labels, because why not?

I wore giant pants all through high school in the late 90s and lo, the wheel of time is turning back to not having any of my body discernible beneath swaths of fabric.

Seeking more giant pants, I sewed up the Awl Trousers from Alamain Studio as a wearable muslin in 7.5 ounce twill. I used soft elastic for the waistband and the combo of the heavy fabric and wimpy elastic makes the drawstring not optional, but–for a pant with 8 inches of ease at the hip–I think they’re kind of chic?

I also whipped up a giant top to fully reject the male gaze. This is the free Jesse Tee from True Bias and my fourth attempt at an easy knit top in the last 6 weeks. (I made Top 1 too big, I didn’t like the style on Top 2 after I finished it, and Top 3 was just bad drafting so I didn’t finish and will repurpose for some undies in the future.) Thankfully this easy knit top worked out.

I finished my new active shorts in time to take them up to the river last weekend! Here they are doing what I love the most, Getting In The Water.

 

These are the Road Trip Pattern Co. Sierra Shorts. This is my second RTPC pattern and I’m a fan–professional instructions and drafting and I didn’t have to modify the fit. (However, I did go up a size based on the finished garment measurements, because I’m in my Giant Pants Era: I measured a 12 but as drafted that only had 1.5″ of ease, so I went up to a 14.)

The pattern has nice details, like the front cargo pockets that are big enough to hold a phone and instructions to use a mesh lining for the main pocket backing. I added a key loop to one front pocket and velcro to the back pocket so I don’t lose anything if I fall in the river.

The pattern would be a convincing Patagonia dupe if made in a solid color, but I found some print microfiber boardshort fabric from Fashion Fabrics Club to test the pattern with. I added a belt and belt loops because in my experience, wet elastic and cargo pockets means your shorts are going to fall off.

I put the belt and pocket lining to the test with a quick cold plunge and these were as comfy as cold wet shorts can be.

Remember those barrel-leg pants I made back in November? They remained very snug; then I saw these RTW pants in the spring, so I remade them in a size up in khaki and now I kind of love big pants?

But the real star here are the EMUS, of course. This is fabric from Doops Designs that I’d been sitting on since 2021 or so. I only had a meter but cropping the Willow Tank by three inches and using commercial bias binding made it work.

If I had a leave-the-house job I’d wear the hell out of these pants with a little top (here I’m dressed up for a therapy appointment, lol). But the EMU TOP will work with any pants on Zoom, so it’s a win-win outfit.

At this point in my life, I like what I like and I have enough of a blog record to prove it. Case in point: Colorful stripey fabrics and big pants, as discussed in 2019 / made a few weeks ago.

I took Sunday afternoon off from garage work and hid from 109 degree heat (!) in the basement, sewing up another pair of Elizabeth Suzann Florence Pants  (lengthened by 4 inches again; I also upgraded my pocket addition to be anchored in the waistband and they’re so much nicer). The fabric is a Kaffe Fassett stripe from Harmony and the colors are so good.

I had about 1.5 yards left from some block print fabric I got for a dress a few years ago and wanted something easy to throw on for Zoom calls, so I made a Grainline Willow Tank again for the first time in a long time.

Every past Willow Tank I’d made was way too tight so I re-measured and ended up going up 3 sizes. I think I look mostly the same after 7 years of lifting but if you want actual proof of progress, the measuring tape doesn’t lie–I have an extra 2 inches of muscle around my back and chest now. (Jeah, bro!)

I generally like a collar on my Zoom tops but when it’s 100 degrees out and the AC is struggling to keep up in the upstairs office, I just can’t do it. The Willow still looks put-together enough but is nice and breezy, so I might be making a few more.

It took me a couple years to jump on the “matching set” trend but I finally sewed up some block print fabric I bought pre-tariffs into the Florence Pant (lengthened 3 inches with a 1.25 inch hem) and the Genra Shirt for a look that screams… pajamas?

I promise, these sets are all over the fashion world. There’s even a sewing pattern for both that I was inspired by, but I decided to use patterns I already had and that I knew fit (I have never been a “make a lot of muslins and tweak the fit” sewer).

Looking at these FASHUN examples, I think I need to try the top tucked in and add some jewelry if I wear it out of the house?

I do like the final pieces, though–as you might expect from almost-pajamas, the whole set is ridiculously comfy. I love an Indian block print for summer; the cotton is so nice and light.

I don’t wear a lot of my mom’s clothes, but I did take a camp shirt she made back in the late 80s in a cowboy print, when Ralph Lauren’s “RL Country” Western aesthetic was everywhere.

I do have all of her patterns, though, and since I love the boxy fit of the cowboy shirt and I was missing my mom, I thought, “Why not find the pattern she used for that and make another shirt?” Comparing the actual shirt to the different camp shirt options was pretty easy; it turns out she used the contender I liked best, an old designer one from The Gap before they got their modern logo (!).

 

Like Mom did with the cowboy shirt, I used a quilting cotton in a fun print. (I bought the last of it from Sewtopia so I can’t link it, but I’m pretty sure it was a Kokka import.) I like how the clouds behind the tigers can also be breath/fart clouds 🤣

 

I decided to go full 80s when I wore this out of the house, with my light jeans and huaraches for Magnum P.I. Summer vibes.

We had a family reunion/vacation with Doc’s family planned in April but then his mom fell. (She’s home now and on the mend.) We didn’t end up going but of course I’d already made a new swimsuit for it.

So I broke it out at the sauna/onsen (saunsen?) and it looked wildly tropical in the alpine setting:

The fabric had been “marinating” in my stash for a few years, as it does, but I always planned on a vaguely retro-style bikini. I used a pattern from my beloved and dependable Greenstyle, the Surfside Wrap Top and the Waimea Bottoms (this time without the pocket and high waist, but I might be regretting that) (it’s less retro without it).

I love not having to find commercial swimwear that 1) meets my style criteria; 2) fits how I want it to; and 3) isn’t $200 for tiny pieces of fabric. Hooray for sewing!