Practical Sewing

We got word last week that the company is going fully remote, so all the dresses and blazers I was pondering for a hazy “maybe I go to the office sometimes” future don’t really need to get made now. (Note to self: You absolutely cannot buy any more fabric for things like that.)

But I still want to sew–because what else would I do with myself–so now what? I think it’s either tailored coats and quilts (both time-consuming) or I lean more into technical outdoor gear. I am working on a faux-Patagonia pullover for Doc using a pattern from Green Pepper and they have a reversible insulated vest that I know I’d wear a lot (I even sourced actual down insulation!):

 

Looking for knockoff Patagonia patterns led me to this vest from 5 out of 4 Patterns, and this would be fun to do in a print: 

And I found Waffle Patterns, who is making beautiful outerwear patterns with an astonishing number of functional, professional pockets, like this cargo vest:

I mean, I’ve never even considered making a hood that zips into a collar before. That would keep me busy, right?

Tuesday Project Pondering: Shacket 2.0?

If you recall, this time last year I made a shirt-jacket (or SHACKET) out of some plaid wool blend from JoAnn:
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I really liked the shape but as I’ve pulled it out of the closet and put it back again over the last year, I’ve realized: It’s so itchy. The older I get, the less I can tolerate wool, and that wool/acrylic blend looks nice but feels terrible.

It’s also just kind of blah, color-wise…which is why I’m pondering in re-making it in THIS:

It’s also from JoAnn, but it’s cotton on the outside and cozy poly SHERPA FLEECE on the inside:

It feels a little excessive to make something twice, but if I do Shacket 2.0, maybe I can find a home for 1.0. Then everything gets worn and it’s a happy ending and not wasteful at all, right?

Tuesday Project Roundup: Card-again

I used to wear a cardigan over a t-shirt or turtleneck about every day in high school. I don’t know why I stopped–style change, I guess–but 20-something years later, I’ve rediscovered them. This time, of course, I’m making them:

This one is out of a gorgeous German cotton sweater knit from Jumping June Textiles (I got a lucky remnant) and the pattern is the Marlo Sweater from True Bias. Looking at mine vs. the pattern pic, I clearly ignored the suggested button placement, but it’s fine. No issues sewing or fitting, although this knit is drapier than the stable knit the pattern calls for.

Cardigans are great for regulating heat as you move around or the house warms up during the day (how had I forgotten this?). I already have another longer one planned in polar fleece–gotta make up for lost time.

Tuesday Project Roundup: New Couch, New Pillows

I’ve made my own pillow covers before, but I always got lazy and just did an envelope back–then got annoyed when the cover didn’t ever fit snugly. This time around, I took the time to put in a zip. I even added piping! And I can’t believe I hadn’t been doing that all along. It’s not that much extra work and it looks so professional:

When I was starting to plan all of this redecorating I went to a local warehouse for decorators’ fabric and saw that serape-ish stripe. I went back the next weekend and bought it, then realized it went really well with the leftover blocks from my quilt coat. (Wow, is it a lot faster to quilt just a pillow front and back than a whole long jacket.)

My other tip for nice plump pillows, other than adding a zipper? Make them 1-2 inches smaller all around than the size of your insert. The inserts here were 18×18 but pretty squishy, so I went with a 16×16 final cover size and it worked out perfectly.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Basic Gray Hoodie

Here’s a gray hoodie and some more fall leaves (this time, from an evening Millcreek jaunt):

This is Jalie 2795 and it was a delight to sew, despite the plain grayness of it. I’m becoming a big fan of Jalie patterns–the drafting and details just make for a really professional look.

This is essentially a collared jacket with a hood attached. That means you can pull your hood up really snug around your chin but also that it’s going to sit around your neck pretty tightly, as you can see above. I like it, but it’s not your standard hood-attached-to-the-neckline fit, where the hood hangs halfway down your back.

The hood itself is drafted in three pieces so it sits really well on your head–there’s no drawstring but it’s not going to blow off.

Fit-wise, I didn’t add any length to the sleeves and they come to my knuckles–and I have really long arms for my height. I made a straight size “V” per my measurements and didn’t have to make any alterations. (If I make it again, I might add an inch to the sleeves and make thumb holes in the cuffs).

I did end up adding a zip pocket on the sleeve. I’m not completely happy with how it turned out, but it works (and I am happy about those welts on the main pockets). Considering this fleece was so beefy that I broke two different needles topstitching the zipper, I think it all turned out OK.

So there you go–I’m surprised how much I liked sewing something so plain, and I’m already wearing this a lot. Am I going to be someone who sews…basics?  What’s next, jeans?

Tuesday Project Progress: Back To Sewing

We finished the last of the construction in the bathroom Saturday–but I did decide to paint an accent wall after all, so it’s not 100% done yet. (But wow is it nice! Like being in a hotel every day!)

But I took a break from remodeling and just sewed all day Sunday and it was lovely. I’m working on the gray zip hoodie and it’s not as boring as I thought, mostly because Jalie patterns ask for so much detail:

Welt pockets! Topstitching! If you ever wonder why you need a cover stitch machine, just sew a Jalie pattern and it’ll pay for itself.

Tuesday Project Planning: Sweatsuits Are The New Business Suit

Last fall I saved an outfit from Australian brand Gorman, which features wonderful bright prints and very expensive items and shipping:

I was just getting into matching sets for WFH Winter (I made a few; they never got blogged) and that bright print and contrast ribbing stuck with me. Fast forward a year and I found some tropical French terry and contrast rib from Jumping June Textiles and it call came together:

I don’t think this will end up being a “look for less”–that European fabric is $$, but it also won’t pill after three wears like the cheap blends I used last year. I have a zip hoodie and some throw pillows in line ahead of this but soon I’ll have my bright set!

Tuesday Project Planning: Do I Just Buy It?

I don’t own a zip front hooded sweatshirt, just a pullover one. I’ve been making the pullover one work as a gym layer when the mornings are cold, but getting my short hair back for the gym is pretty precarious and pulling something over my head kind of destroys everything I just scraped back.

So do I make something as basic as a gray or black hoodie? On one hand, anything “fancy” I want to sew won’t get worn outside the house for who knows how long, so basics are a good use of my time. On the other hand, I get pretty bored sewing basics in solid colors.

But it wouldn’t be hard–Jalie makes a pattern for a zip sweatshirt with a really designer-looking hood:

And I could get some deadstock sweatshirting from Cali Fabrics for under $20:

Or even some remnant “sweater look” PolarFleece from Mill Yardage (or curly fleece from the Rain Shed):

And I could put in zip pockets so my ID stays put and top stitch it all with the cover stitch…. hm. Sounds like I’m going to be making a hoodie.

Tuesday Project Roundup: Bigger, Brighter, Better

I haven’t made a lot of underwear this year because I was still really stocked up from last year’s frenzy. But I went fabric shopping (mostly) locally and got some knits and saw a new pattern and now I have three pairs of even BIGGER underwear–one with RAINBOW BRITE elastic!

The pattern is the Ohh Lulu Cabin Shorties and I’m really loving them under dresses or wide leg pants (or without pants at all). The legs are finished with a baby hem and the cover stitch does such a good job with it.

The fabric in the back was from Harmony and the apples in the middle were a good find at Nuttall’s. They’re both Kaufman knits, which are high quality. The print in the front (from Jumping June Textiles online) is a European knit and after working on a few projects, I’m realizing Euro knits are the Ferrari of cottons–just butter smooth, impossible to fade, cool but substantial. (Plus they come in amazing prints.)

These were fun and fast and got me excited about print + elastic combos…I think I’ll be making more!

Fantasy Fashion

Sometimes you just have to ignore the Wheel Of Doom and your remote work “style” where you hate even your comfiest pants and think about a fantasy outfit. Like what you’d wear if you went to New York and, after a day in the Garment District, you’d go to the Met Opera. You would clearly wear a brocade coat you made that did not cost $695 like the inspiration. You’d probably line it in sky blue for good measure and wear it with some amazing shoes.

The inspiration, from Francis Valentine
A brocade option from Etsy

 

Another option from Ali Express, which is kind of shopping roulette but fun to browse

 

Let’s not forget the SHOES